Anyone familiar with our work knows that everything we do is custom, hence my somewhat tongue-in-cheek remark in a previous blog post that “pools are like snowflakes, no two are ever alike.” The reason no two pools we create are ever alike is because there are so many variables to consider when designing a pool – lifestyle (how the pool will be used), the architecture of the home, the environment and space, and taste preferences in style, materials, esthetics.

So what are the options out there and some of the general considerations to think about before you meet with a pool designer? Here is a quick run-down on basic pool types (other considerations, such as salt water versus fresh water pools and options in pool finishes have been covered in previous posts).

Sports Pool or Play Pool
These are terms that are sometimes used for pools that are typically no deeper than five feet. These pools are built for cooling off and relaxing in, swimming laps, playing volleyball and other water sports.

Lap Pool
Lap pools are typically long, narrow pools to facilitate exercise and swimming for health and fitness.  While the ideal size for swimming laps is 6 feet in width by 60 to 75 feet in length, you can still fit a pool that accommodates exercise in as little as 30 feet.

Diving Pool
Diving pools typically have a deeper end for diving and a shallow end for wading. The deeper end is generally about 8-1/2 feet deep with a diving board or platform. Diving pools should be built to NSPI (National Pool and Spa Institute) and ANSI (American National Standards Institute) standards.

Plunge Pool or Spool
These terms are both used for small swimming pools that are larger than spas but smaller than the average swimming pool (typically no larger than 15 to 20 feet and often smaller). The word “spool” is a combination of a spa and a pool. They are a great option for more urban environments where the yards are small.

Freeform Pool
A freeform pool is a naturalistic- or lagoon-style pool. It usually has rock features and lush, natural landscaping surrounding the pool to create an oasis environment.

Geometric Pool
Geometric pools usually have very straight lines or a consistent radius and can be used to create a more formal and traditional look or a very clean, contemporary style.

Negative Edge Pool, Infinity Edge Pool or Infinity Pool
A negative edge pool is an in-ground pool lacking one or more edges and is designed to look like the pool extends all the way out to the horizon. Negative edge pools are especially effective when the edgeless part of the pool is located over high ground that drops away. They are also beautiful when near a water source such as an ocean or lake. The edgeless look is achieved by building one side of the pool below the water line and placing a water collection reservoir below the pool and out of sight. When the pool is at the top of high ground anything below the top is not easy to see visually. The water collection reservoir works like the rest of the pool filtration system and the water collected is filtered back into the pool. The mechanics and engineering of an infinity pool is complex and cannot be compromised – be sure to do your homework before hiring a designer and builder for this type of pool.

Perimeter Overflow Pool
The appearance of a perimeter overflow pool is often described as “mirror-like” because the water is allowed to pour in a thin sheet over all the edges. Since the water is not bound by hard edges, disturbances to the surface don’t persist and the result is a smooth, reflective surface that lends an atmosphere of serenity to its surroundings. With a perimeter overflow pool, the water is level with the pool decking. Around the pool perimeter is a channel that the water drains into and, as with an infinity-edge system, the water that flows over the sides is caught and recirculated. Construction for a perimeter overflow pool is even more exacting that it is for an infinity pool; the edge of the pool must be extremely level to create even flow over the entire perimeter and the building tolerance is typically one-sixteenth of an inch or less.

Dormant oils were originally developed to treat otherwise hard-to-control pest problems on fruit trees. These highly refined oils are sprayed on shrubs and the bark of trees during the winter months when plants are dormant (November through February). They kill difficult-to-eradicate microscopic pests
In a number of ways by either suffocating them or disrupting how they feed.

Dormant oils pose few risks to people and do not harm most beneficial insects. Toxicity is minimal, at least compared to alternative pesticides, and these oils quickly dissipate through evaporation, leaving little residue. Further, dormant oils also are easy to apply using proper spray equipment and can be mixed with many other pesticides to extend their performance.

That said, it is important to know what you’re doing when applying dormant oils, as improper application can lead to disastrous results. Dormant oils should never be applied to plants when there is a danger of freezing or when plants have emerged from dormancy. They should also not be applied to plants that are stressed out. In all of these instances, phytotoxicity can result (poisoning). Other plants such as pansies, bluebonnets and snapdragons growing under or near plants to be treated need to be completely covered and protected.

Recently, more refined oils have been developed that can be used for greater pest control during the growing season. Spider mites, whiteflies and young stages of scales are common pests that can be controlled by oils during the growing season.

Although it’s just 5.2 acres, Klyde Warren Park is chock-full of things to do and was buzzing with activity.  There were people everywhere; lounging and gathering around tables and chairs, socializing with their dogs in the dog park, watching their kids in the children’s park, taking advantage of the foosball, ping pong and mini-putting green, milling around and sampling wares from the gourmet food trucks…it seems a lot of people had the same great idea I had on how to spend the day outdoors.

Spanning the 1,000-foot east side of the park there is a beautiful promenade lined with white arches.  On the west side are the reading and game rooms (that’s where you’ll find the chess tables, ping pong, etc).  The trees on the west promenade particularly caught my eye as the trunks are covered in bright yarn, with all kinds of whimsical details.  Along with the arches, another highlight of the park is the interactive, in-ground water features which are, in a word, fun.  Kids and pets alike can’t seem to resist their draw.

One of the things I like most about Klyde Warren Park is just knowing the vision, persistence and hard work it took to create what is now and will remain one of defining features of downtown Dallas. Klyde Warren Park was reportedly conceived as a public space over Woodall Rodgers Freeway four decades ago.  Four decades from now I have no doubt it will be as popular with Dallasites as it is today – and that is the real beauty of it.

When is Cold Good?
Vernalization is a physiological process in some plants where the flowers or seeds must go through a prolonged period of cold in order to blossom or germinate in the spring. The amount of cold required by a plant is measured in “chill hours.” For many perennial plants, such as fruit trees, a period of cold is needed to break dormancy, prior to flowering. Peaches, for example, typically require 700 to 1,000 “chill hours” (below 45°F and above 32°F) before they break their rest period and begin growth. Nuts trees and berry bushes also have varying chilling requirements. That pretty much sums it up for cold = good.

When Cold Bad: Frosts and Freezes
To understand frost, you need to understand a little bit about dew point. Dew point is a water-to-air saturation temperature. When the temperature falls to the same temperature as the dew point, dew forms because that is temperature at which the air can no longer hold all its moisture. When the dew point is below freezing, frost forms instead of dew. Frost typically forms when the temperature drops to near or just below freezing and there is no wind. Frost can form when the temperature is above freezing, but frost is a sign that the plant tissues have dropped below freezing. When you see frost there has been a freeze at the point of the plant surface. The absolute low as well as the length of time frost conditions remain can affect how much damage is done to plants. Real damage occurs when the water in a plant’s cells freeze, damaging the cell wall.

When a plant is frost-damaged, growth can take on a translucent appearance or become limp, then turn black or brown and dry up. Frost problems can be worse where plants face the morning sun because they defrost more quickly, which ruptures their cell walls.

A freeze is a more extended period of below freezing temperatures and may or may not include wind. In the Dallas area, extended periods of freezing temperatures are rare. When they do occur, soil becomes frozen. Many people think that trees and shrubs “go dormant” in the winter. This is true, but the internal functions of plants do not stop, they just slow way down. As long as the soil is not frozen, trees, shrubs, and even some perennials will still be growing roots. When soil becomes frozen roots are unable to take up water and plants can die from lack of moisture.

Plants are most vulnerable to freezing temperatures in the spring when periods of warm weather increase and suddenly there are several nights with temperatures well below freezing. A hard freeze can damage fruit and buds. Buds may freeze and drop off or fully opened flowers can turn brown or fall to the ground.

Runners
One way to avoid cold weather is simply to migrate to a warmer climate (such as Mexico) and return after winter. Monarch butterflies are famous for this, but other butterflies, moths and dragonflies do it as well.

Hiders
Some insects bury themselves in the soil or in leaf litter, while others may seek out cavities in trees, burrow beneath tree bark or under rocks or find warmth inside your garage, walls, or attic. Mosquitoes love to hide in places like moist leaf debris and thrive in environments ranging from the equator to the Arctic so a little deep freeze is unlikely to do them lasting damage. A freeze will kill some of the population, but it’s not going to wipe all the mosquitoes out so when temperatures rise a little and it rains, they’ll be back.

Spider mites also bury themselves in leaf debris or ground litter and can do damage in the winter and are ready to do even more damage in the spring,

Ants and termites head deeper into the ground to just below the frost line, where their large numbers and stored food keep them comfortable until spring arrives. Cockroaches (along with fleas, silverfish and spiders) will invade homes or compost piles. Wasps, ladybugs, and stink bugs are all considered invasive pests in the fall and early winter because of their over-winter survival behavior.

Most bees and wasps hibernate during the colder months. In many species, only the queen survives the winter, emerging in spring to reestablish a colony. But honey bees remain active all winter long, despite the freezing temperatures and lack of flowers on which to forage.

Insects that overwinter in the soil have a tendency to be less affected by winter weather conditions than those that don’t. Furthermore, insects that overwinter as eggs tend to withstand adverse conditions better than those which overwinter as adults, pupae or in the immature stage.

Fighters
Since insect blood does not freeze at 32 degrees Fahrenheit, pretty much all insects can fight frost to some degree. Death by freezing isn’t related to low temperature itself as much as it is the result of ice crystals forming in the body. Rapid formation and expansion of ice crystals cause cells to burst, resulting in organ and gut damage.

Some invertebrates can survive being frozen solid (called “freeze tolerance”) by producing ice nucleating proteins that control the freezing process within their bodies. Although the ice crystals form inside the body of the invertebrate they do not damage the cells and organs of the animal. When the weather gets warmer the crystals melt and the invertebrate becomes active again.

There is no doubt that winter is a difficult time for invertebrate. But insects and spiders have evolved lots of strategies to survive cold weather (and let’s face it, north Texas isn’t prone to a lot of freezing temperatures). Even in places such as Canada and Central Europe where night time temperatures can fall to as low as -40 degrees Centigrade, insects survive. So start cleaning up debris (remove infected foliage and rake beds clean) and spraying since “garden sanitation” is really the key to mitigating insects and diseases.

Visit Bonick Landscaping to learn more about lawn maintenance in Dallas, Texas.

The exhibit, which has been in Dallas since May 5th and closes December 31st, has been an unprecedented success for the Dallas Arboretum. An article in The Dallas Morning News indicated they expect to gross $4.5 million, but my guess is that the actual number will be higher since the exhibit was extended from its original closing date of November 5th. The exhibit also doubled the arboretum’s attendance records versus the same time last year, they have attracted more than 7,000 new members and bookings for corporate retreats and private parties have increased dramatically.

This started me wondering why more special exhibits aren’t developed for arboretums, and if they are why we haven’t seen them in Dallas? A brief Internet search leads me to believe that the Chihuly exhibit is somewhat unique. There are some other, much lesser exhibits, but they aren’t really designed to take advantage of a venue like the arboretum. The North Carolina Arboretum has a new exhibit inspired by Amy Stewart’s best-selling book Wicked Plants: The Weed that Killed Lincoln’s Mother and other Botanical Atrocities but it’s really an inside exhibit. The Morton Arboretum has an exhibit titled, Vanishing Acts: Trees Under Threat. As much as I am interested in plants, that doesn’t sound exciting enough to capture the imagination and interest of the public in the same way as Chihuly – not even close.

I love the idea of bringing outdoor sculpture together with the ultimate outdoor environment. It would be great if there was a way for The Nasher and the Arboretum to collaborate on some kind of exhibit that involves both venues. Another thought would be for the Dallas Arboretum to establish a juried, annual outdoor sculpture competition and exhibit. Chihuly isn’t just a fun exhibit, it’s a great concept that shouldn’t end when the show leaves town.

Always remember, because trees take longer to grow and reach maturity, in times of drought and water restrictions, trees should be given priority over other landscape. A turfgrass lawn left unwatered will naturally go dormant for the season and turn brown, but it may turn green again when rain falls or irrigation is reintroduced. Even if reseeding or resodding is necessary, a lawn can often be reestablished in a single season—a large tree cannot.

What are the Effects of Drought?
Early signs of drought stress include wilted leaves and leaf scorching but drought can affect a tree in many other ways including:
• Buds, bark and root systems begin to decline
• Photosynthesis stops
• Growth slows and shoots dieback
• Susceptibility to diseases, insects and other pests increases
• Sensitivity to pesticides, insecticides, herbicides increases
• Vulnerability to high winds, other plant competition and pollution increase

Drought stress symptoms can persist for several years after the initial drought and the previous year’s drought damage may not become evident until spring when weakened limbs break due to strong winds and heavy rains. A tree can show declined growth for a year or two and that decline, along with the
tree’s reduced natural defenses, allows for the expansion of pest populations or diseases that take advantage of the tree’s weakened state.

Which Trees are Susceptible to Drought?
Some trees are more susceptible to drought than others. These include: our beloved red oak, trees with shallow roots such as maples and elms; trees that tolerate heavy clays such as bald cypress, honey locust and river birch; and trees that tolerate poor soil such as hackberry, hornbeam, catalpa and others

How Much Water Does a Tree Need?
A tree’s water demands vary depending on many factors including the age and size of the tree (and its leaves), ambient air temperature, wind speed, etc. When the temperature goes above 80 degrees, large, mature trees may need hundreds of gallons of water a week to sustain through a drought. Through the process of transpiration, up to 80 gallons or more of water can evaporate through the leaves of a single mature tree on a hot summer day.

Watering Established Trees
Established trees should be irrigated from the dripline (the edge of the tree’s leaves) outward. The distance will depend upon the size of the tree and the tree’s root system (a tree’s roots can extend more than three times wider than the height of the tree). A basic rule of thumb is to apply water in a circle that’s at least half as wide as the distance from the trunk to the dripline. Trees should be watered slowly and deeply. Since most of a tree’s water-absorbing roots are in the top 12 to 24 inches of the soil you’ll want to water the soil to a depth of two to three feet each time you water. Let the surface dry between waterings. Remember, deep watering encourages deep rooting—and deep roots are the best way for a tree to survive a drought. Irrigate established trees once every two weeks during the growing season and once a month during the dormant season.

Poinsettia
I mention this plant first because the urban myth – that it is highly toxic – simply isn’t true. It has a low level of toxicity that is derived from the sap found in its brightly colored petals and leaves. It can cause nausea and vomiting, but it would take a large amount to cause poisoning, and most animals wouldn’t eat a large enough amount because of the irritating taste and feel from the sap. However, it is better to err on the side of caution by keeping pets away from this plant.

Holly
The holly plant, along with its berries, is moderately to severely toxic and poses a much greater risk to your pets than poinsettia. Both live and dried plants should be kept well out of your pet’s reach, or kept out of the home altogether.

Mistletoe
Like holly, the mistletoe plant and its berries can be severely toxic to pets. In addition to the commonly mentioned symptoms mentioned previously, mistletoe can cause difficulty breathing, slowed heart rate, collapse and, if a lot is ingested, death. Luckily, most holiday mistletoe ends up in doorways and closer to the ceiling than to the floor, well out of reach of curious pets.

Amaryllis & Paperwhites
Many plants in the lily family contain poisonous alkaloids, are highly toxic for cats and certain varieties are highly toxic to dogs as well (amaryllis being one of them). Eating even a small amount of these plants will have an extreme impact on a cat’s system, causing severe symptoms and even death. Daffodils (paperwhites are part of the daffodil family) are also toxic to both dogs and cats, especially the bulbs.

Christmas cactus and Christmas trees are both considered mildly toxic. However, problems can arise if large quantities of either of these are consumed. Luckily, pets don’t tend to consume large amounts of either of these plants. The ASPCA website offers a more complete list of plants that are toxic for dogs and cats.

Toxic for dogs
http://www.aspca.org/Pet-care/poison-control/plant-list-dogs.aspx

Toxic for cats
http://www.aspca.org/Pet-care/poison-control/plant-list-cats

Overseeding Warm-Season Grasses with Cool-Season Grass
Because we are in Dallas, Texas our clients’ lawns have warm-season grasses, such as Bermuda grass, buffalo grass, St. Augustine grass or zoysia grass. In the winter when these grasses go dormant, they turn brown and unappealing. By overseeding a lawn with ryegrass, a cool-season annual grass, you can enjoy an attractive green lawn year-round. Another benefit of overseeding your lawn in fall is that it helps reduce weeds, crowding them out naturally, without resorting to chemical weed killers. Importantly, annual ryegrass will die back when the heat returns so that warm-season grasses can take center-stage again. It should be noted, however, that overseeding can also place stress on the primary lawn. In the spring when the warm-season turf is trying to come out of dormancy, the cool-season rye grass is still coming on strong, creating competition and slowing the primary grass growth. Especially in the shade, this can be detrimental for the warm season grass.

Overseeding Cool-Season Grasses with the Same Type of Grass
Not every cool-season grass benefits from overseeding. Grass types that spread by the production of “runners” are not typically overseeded unless the lawn is damaged or diseased. Cool-season bunch type grasses such as fescue grasses, ryegrasses and occasionally bluegrass benefit from overseeding.

The reason to overseed cool-season grasses is to keep your lawn looking thick and healthy. The easiest way to do this is by keeping your grass young. To understand this, it helps to understand a little about how bunch grasses grow. As the name suggests, bunch type grasses grow in a bunch. The grass crown, at the plant’s center, has roots and blades. Grass plants expand as new grass blades or “tillers” develop and grow next to the original crown. A blade of grass has a lifespan of about six weeks and must continually produce new tillers or the grass thins out. Hundreds of new tillers can develop, each having its own crown, roots and blades. After several years, mature plants begin to slow down their reproduction rate. Since new growth must outpace dying grass, it is important to keep young grass in the mix that will produce tillers faster than older grass.

When to Overseed Your Lawn
Whether it’s for warm-season or cool-season grasses, the time to overseed is fall when soil temperatures are still warm (necessary for seed germination), air temperatures are cooler (better for grass growth) and there is more rain. Additionally, cooler temperatures reduce insect infestation and disease.

These days exposed aggregate pool finishes are widely used and offer greater durability and longevity.  They also offer a lot of esthetic options.  There are a number of good choices available, but two lines Bonick Landscaping likes to work with Durazzo Pool Surfaces and Diamond Brite exposed aggregate pool finishes.

Durazzo is made from marble aggregates and non-fading colored quartz and Diamond Brite is a non-fading quartz aggregate; both are finer than pebble surfaces.  Both Durazzo and Diamond Brite are highly durable finishes that resist staining and etching that result from the exposure to harsh pool chemicals and both are non-skid, slip-resistant surfaces that are safe on both the feet and swimsuits.  Other advantages to these surfaces are that they can be drained and cleaned without being damaged and they can be polished or sanded, for clients who prefer a smoother finish.  It also means the surfaces can be rejuvenated over time.  These newer finishes typically carry a 10 year warranty.

Like other similar surface finishes, both aggregates come in a wide range of colors from whites, blues and greens to onyx or slate shades.  Gold and brown colored flecks bring green into water surface reflections that are synonymous with natural bodies of water.  White or light flecks reflect sky colors more readily.  At Bonick Landscaping we often create custom colors for our clients by combining several colors to create a deeper, richer finish with more subtle hues.  Lighter colors are a bit more contemporary, providing a “cleaner” look that is popular today.