Is a Cold Winter Good or Bad for Plants?

Posted on February 21, 2013 by Glenn

The short answer to this question is it depends on how cold, where you live and what types of plants you are trying to grow. In the Dallas area, our winters tend to be mild with cool temperatures interspersed with warm temperatures and a few freezes.

When is Cold Good?
Vernalization is a physiological process in some plants where the flowers or seeds must go through a prolonged period of cold in order to blossom or germinate in the spring. The amount of cold required by a plant is measured in “chill hours.” For many perennial plants, such as fruit trees, a period of cold is needed to break dormancy, prior to flowering. Peaches, for example, typically require 700 to 1,000 “chill hours” (below 45°F and above 32°F) before they break their rest period and begin growth. Nuts trees and berry bushes also have varying chilling requirements. That pretty much sums it up for cold = good.

When Cold Bad: Frosts and Freezes
To understand frost, you need to understand a little bit about dew point. Dew point is a water-to-air saturation temperature. When the temperature falls to the same temperature as the dew point, dew forms because that is temperature at which the air can no longer hold all its moisture. When the dew point is below freezing, frost forms instead of dew. Frost typically forms when the temperature drops to near or just below freezing and there is no wind. Frost can form when the temperature is above freezing, but frost is a sign that the plant tissues have dropped below freezing. When you see frost there has been a freeze at the point of the plant surface. The absolute low as well as the length of time frost conditions remain can affect how much damage is done to plants. Real damage occurs when the water in a plant’s cells freeze, damaging the cell wall.

When a plant is frost-damaged, growth can take on a translucent appearance or become limp, then turn black or brown and dry up. Frost problems can be worse where plants face the morning sun because they defrost more quickly, which ruptures their cell walls.

A freeze is a more extended period of below freezing temperatures and may or may not include wind. In the Dallas area, extended periods of freezing temperatures are rare. When they do occur, soil becomes frozen. Many people think that trees and shrubs “go dormant” in the winter. This is true, but the internal functions of plants do not stop, they just slow way down. As long as the soil is not frozen, trees, shrubs, and even some perennials will still be growing roots. When soil becomes frozen roots are unable to take up water and plants can die from lack of moisture.

Plants are most vulnerable to freezing temperatures in the spring when periods of warm weather increase and suddenly there are several nights with temperatures well below freezing. A hard freeze can damage fruit and buds. Buds may freeze and drop off or fully opened flowers can turn brown or fall to the ground.

The Effects of Drought on Mature Trees

Posted on December 12, 2012 by Glenn

Sadly, as this year draws to a close we continue to see the effects of the prolonged drought the North Texas area has been experiencing. One of the largest casualties, both literally and physically, has been the loss of mature trees. Large mature trees are more easily stressed-out and damaged than established trees that are smaller and younger and we have literally been seeing them dying all over town.

Always remember, because trees take longer to grow and reach maturity, in times of drought and water restrictions, trees should be given priority over other landscape. A turfgrass lawn left unwatered will naturally go dormant for the season and turn brown, but it may turn green again when rain falls or irrigation is reintroduced. Even if reseeding or resodding is necessary, a lawn can often be reestablished in a single season—a large tree cannot.

What are the Effects of Drought?
Early signs of drought stress include wilted leaves and leaf scorching but drought can affect a tree in many other ways including:
• Buds, bark and root systems begin to decline
• Photosynthesis stops
• Growth slows and shoots dieback
• Susceptibility to diseases, insects and other pests increases
• Sensitivity to pesticides, insecticides, herbicides increases
• Vulnerability to high winds, other plant competition and pollution increase

Drought stress symptoms can persist for several years after the initial drought and the previous year’s drought damage may not become evident until spring when weakened limbs break due to strong winds and heavy rains. A tree can show declined growth for a year or two and that decline, along with the
tree’s reduced natural defenses, allows for the expansion of pest populations or diseases that take advantage of the tree’s weakened state.

Which Trees are Susceptible to Drought?
Some trees are more susceptible to drought than others. These include: our beloved red oak, trees with shallow roots such as maples and elms; trees that tolerate heavy clays such as bald cypress, honey locust and river birch; and trees that tolerate poor soil such as hackberry, hornbeam, catalpa and others

How Much Water Does a Tree Need?
A tree’s water demands vary depending on many factors including the age and size of the tree (and its leaves), ambient air temperature, wind speed, etc. When the temperature goes above 80 degrees, large, mature trees may need hundreds of gallons of water a week to sustain through a drought. Through the process of transpiration, up to 80 gallons or more of water can evaporate through the leaves of a single mature tree on a hot summer day.

Watering Established Trees
Established trees should be irrigated from the dripline (the edge of the tree’s leaves) outward. The distance will depend upon the size of the tree and the tree’s root system (a tree’s roots can extend more than three times wider than the height of the tree). A basic rule of thumb is to apply water in a circle that’s at least half as wide as the distance from the trunk to the dripline. Trees should be watered slowly and deeply. Since most of a tree’s water-absorbing roots are in the top 12 to 24 inches of the soil you’ll want to water the soil to a depth of two to three feet each time you water. Let the surface dry between waterings. Remember, deep watering encourages deep rooting—and deep roots are the best way for a tree to survive a drought. Irrigate established trees once every two weeks during the growing season and once a month during the dormant season.

March Landscaping in Dallas: Cutbacks, Pruning and Planting

Posted on March 2, 2012 by Glenn

Is it just me, or did winter pass us by this year in Dallas? As I write this I see the forecast for today is 80 degrees (!) and the extended forecast is upper 60s and low 70s. It appears spring is, well, springing. Here at Bonick Landscaping, we are busy doing cutbacks or pruning. While not the most glamorous of landscaping activities, it’s an important one for plant and landscape health.

Proper Pruning
Properly cutting back or pruning of trees, shrubs, grasses, roses and perennials enhances the beauty of your landscape, but like any other skill, it does require knowledge of what you are doing to achieve success. In most cases, it’s better not to prune than to do it incorrectly as improper pruning can weaken, deform and even kill plants. Believe it or not, more trees are killed each year from improper pruning than by pests. Often DIY pruners don’t have a good fundamental understanding of plants – that the leaf surface reflects the root system, for example, and if you take out too much leaf system, the roots die back – add drought conditions to this equation and all of a sudden you are looking at a once healthy tree that is struggling to survive.

Reasons for Pruning
Reasons for pruning are to maintain plant health, improve the quality of flowers, fruit, foliage and stems and in some instances to restrict growth or “train” a plant. Pruning should always follow a plan that begins with understanding the reason for pruning before you begin. The most obvious reason to prune is to remove dead, broken, pest-infested or diseased limbs by cutting them at the point of origin or back to a strong lateral branch or shoot. Pruning beyond this basic level gets a bit trickier, and again, should only be approached when you are confident that you know what you are doing.

Don’t forget to cutback groundcover and grasses, too, to allow for new growth. It should go without saying, but at this point, wait to trim spring-flowing shrubs and vines until after flowing.

Other March Landscaping Activities
Remember, now is also a good time in the Dallas area to plant trees, shrubs, roses, perennials, herbs and annuals such as begonias, petunias, geraniums, alyssum and snapdragons. Did I mention roses? Some people don’t realize that there are many drought tolerant roses that grow well here in the Dallas area. If you are a DIY gardener, your local nursery can steer you in the right direction. In fact, our friends at North Haven Gardens will be hosting their Spring Rose Festival this weekend, March 3 and 4 and have several educational sessions about roses scheduled throughout the weekend.

These next few months in Dallas are truly some of the most pleasant times to be outside and gardening so enjoy!

‘Tis the Season for Transplanting Trees and Shrubs in Dallas

Posted on February 9, 2012 by Glenn

This is optimum tree and large shrub planting season in Dallas and Bonick Landscaping does a lot of it this time of year. In spite of the fact that trees and shrubs have an exceptionally high ROI in terms of both enjoyment and property value, the cost can add up which is why it is so important to either know what you are doing or hire someone who does. A few basic considerations:

LOCATION
There are a number of considerations when choosing where to plant trees. The site you choose will help determine the kind of tree you choose. Is it going to be located near a deck, a patio or a house? In the sun or shade? What are the soil conditions? Trees need room to grow root systems underground and branches above ground. It’s important not to plant a tree that will grow too large in a small area. This includes the root system which may invade sewer lines, crack sidewalks or create bumpy lawns when mature. Also, avoid planting trees too close to buildings or under power lines or telephone poles (unless you don’t mind seeing them butchered by the phone company).

CHOOSING A TREE
Why are you planting a tree or trees? Your reason also affects your choice. You may want be planting to increase your privacy, to create a windbreak or a sound barrier, to help shade your home or property or simply to increase your landscape’s beauty and your home’s property values. This information, combined with the desired location and soil conditions will help inform your choice. Some other considerations are fast-growing versus slow-growing trees (fast growing trees are often weaker and subject to storm damage) and various tree vulnerabilities (some trees are prone to particular diseases and insects).

TRANSPLANTING
I am not going to get into even the basics here regarding how to plant a tree (there’s too much to cover and DIYers can find plenty of resource for that on the Internet) except to note that you should always proceed to dig with caution (which again goes back to why it is prudent to hire a professional). Before digging, contact your utility company to mark the location of any underground lines. You could be liable for damage done to such lines.

For over 30 years Bonick Landscaping has served clients with the highest standards looking for out-of-the-ordinary luxury landscape designs and pools by offering the best in service, workmanship and plantings. View our portfolio.

Christmas Trees: Real or Fake?

Posted on December 8, 2011 by Glenn

Being in the landscaping business, I’m sure you can guess which side of the fence I’m on in this one. I have yet to come across a fake tree that has that wonderful pine scent that immediately evokes images of Christmas. Each year, my surprise is renewed regarding the myths that persist surrounding the “real vs. fake” debate. So, I decided I would dedicate a blog post to a few of the more prevalent myths and “arguments” I hear from folks regarding real and fake trees. (And just for the record, I am not in the Christmas tree business.)

Buy American
One of the best reasons I can think of to buy a real tree is that when you do, you are helping support an American farmer. According to the National Christmas Tree Association, most of the nearly 30 million live Christmas Trees that will be sold this year come from farms. Trees are a crop, planted by farmers to be used specifically as Christmas trees, the same way farmers grow fruits and vegetables for us to eat. Close to half a billion trees are currently growing on tree farms in the U.S. alone. There are 100,000 people employed in America’s Christmas tree industry and nearly 15,000 Christmas Tree farms across the United States. On the other hand, 85% of artificial trees are imported from China.

Go Green
The other argument I hear a lot in the real vs. fake debate is that in some convoluted way, fake plastic trees are more environmentally friendly. This one I don’t get at all. No one is “saving a tree” when they go artificial. While they are growing, real trees provide a habitat for wildlife and generate carbon dioxide. After Christmas, real trees are biodegradable and recyclable; they make great mulch. Fake trees begin life in a factory and last an average of six to nine years before they end up in a landfill.

Be Reasonable
Another issue often raised is that real trees are a fire hazard. When you start examining the statistics on this, the argument falls apart. In reality, Christmas tree fires are rare (that’s one of the reasons they make the news). And nearly 30% of them involve artificial trees. So if you consider that over 35 million real and fake trees are sold every year, the average 240 fires is a miniscule fraction of a percent. Then there’s the weird fact that according to the National Fire Protection Association, 18% of the fires that do occur are intentionally set (ponder that one). Another 20% of Christmas tree fires are caused by a heat source too close to the tree. (I can think of lots of things that put too close to a heat source for a prolonged period of time would catch on fire). With these odds, I’m simply not convinced the label “fire hazard” applies.

At the end of the day, I think what it really gets down to is convenience. Some people think taking a few minutes a day to water the tree and vacuum up random pine needles is a hassle. I personally think it’s no big deal and worth it for the pleasure a live tree brings. Thankfully, I’m in the majority. This year, Americans will purchase between 25 and 30 million live Christmas trees – more than three times the number of fake trees sold every year. Who says the Christmas spirit isn’t “alive” and well – and living?